17. 4. 2019
Marek Balak is our really good friend for years and many people knit him with John John Florence :-)
Mara travelled many countries all around the world to surf there and currently he stays in Sri Lanka. Let’s ask him about his experience with local waves and his surf life.
Hi Marek, can you tell me who are you and how long do you surf?
JJF, I wish. I met him in snapper rock and he ask me to take a picture with him. I was shocked. Haha
Im from Ceska Lipa, its a town situated not of Czech Republic. Im 31 years old and been surfing since 2015ish.
When I was in New Zealand on working holidays, I wanted to try to surf for a firs time so I bought board from my friend. It was 6.7 ft semi-gun, so not the perfect board for beginners, but I didn’t care because I had no idea what kind of board I supposed to have. When I first time stand up and actually ride a wave a fall in love with surfing.(that was after 2 months of trying every day :D)
When I get back home I wanted to find a place where I can surf and work. So decided to move to England to little town in Cornwall called Newquay. After couple weeks there I met in water or Belucies? (Local club):D best crew of Czech surfers including awesome Pitr the Rock. We were surfing almost every day and pushing our limits (haha), no matter what conditions. I spend in Newquay 4 summer seasons working as a chef in restaurant, making money to travel throw the winter. My favorite places to surf are Bali and Australia. Didn’t travel much in Europe, witch is sad, hopefully this summer ill do some Europe trip.
Why did you choose Sri Lanka? Is it your first time here?
I couldn’t surf for 10 months, because of inflammation in my wrists. So I needed go somewhere where are nice waves and friendly to strain to paddle. I been to Sri Lanka 2 years ago, and its perfect place to do so, and its only place I been to that you can walk to line up :D haha
Is there anything you love and what do you hate there?
I enjoying that in Sri Lanka is more types of waves in such a short distance. You can surf beach break, or take a scooter and go find nice left or right on the reef.
Hate ignorant people on line-up, with don’t respect roles.
What about waves and weather these days?
Its always sunny and very hot. Waves are pretty good, I personally would prefer little bit bigger, because I’m big boy(6’6 ft) and need more powerful waves. But swell is coming…
What do you prefer? Reef or beach breaks?
Definitely reef break, because is offering much cleaner and longer wave. Sometimes is scary when is to shallow.
How to describe Sri Lanka in three words?
Rice and curry
Thank you for your time and hopefully see you soon in water.