31. 5. 2018

Our instructor Pítrs wrote some memories about Sri Lanka, waves and his trip there with his friends.

It has been already few years ago, when I’ve decided to visit this country in Asia. To be fair I had no experiences with travelling beyond than in Europe. At least it was some challenge and me and my the best friends wanted to be there. We used to live in Newquay, small surf town in England for summer season and we had to go somewhere else :-D.

Normally we had no money and that time was the same :-D. Whatever, let’s find some fly tickets and go there. Our plan was nothing…we had just fly tickets with Emirates and some pounds to spend. As usually time was flying and we were waiting for bus in Prague to took us to the airport, then fly to Dubai and Colombo! Lot of bacardi and cokes on our way and we already get to final destination.

Warm and humidity … how we’ll survive this month? Well let’s find some taxi and go somewhere … no ideas, nothing about this country! First stop should be bus station and then to south of Sri Lanka. Apparently there is wet and dry season and during the european winter is good to be in south. We read some article about surfcamp close to Matara, so we’ve decided to go there and maybe we’ll be lucky and will meet Otmar with crew.

It’s hard without any plans, without any ideas what you’ll gonna do :-D. Where to find accommodation was the first question .. hopefully that will find us. It actually happened, some tuc tuc (local three weels taxi) driver knew some place. Maybe brother, dad, grandma,..whoever…but definitelly he had some profit to get us there. Dirty room, no window, but it was cheap. Also he was asking if we surf?! He promised us to take us for some surf beach close from Matara. We woke up next day early in the morning so excited to get close to the waves!

First steps were directed to Sk Town. Small village where is actually base. But we didn’t know about. Driver showed us some really expensive hotel, but we didn’t want to take because: no money, no funny :-D. So first steps directed to the beach and suddenly we met Oťa and he was doing his surf lessons. What a lucky surprise. Me, Honza Honza a Ondra knew we want to stay there. Quick question about accommodation for poor students and we could start our surf holiday! 

There is amazing beach break with lot of peaks, temperature of water is around 28 degrees. Paradise! It was completelly different world, different waves, different power and nice change compare english ocean temperature! All you need is your own or rental surfboard, boardshorts and suncream. Sometimes it’s good to have rushvest as UV protection before sun!

Every day was perfect day because of those waves. Early morning session, big breakfast, afternoon nap and evening surf sessions were on every day basis. Surfing in Sk town is perfect for everyone … beginners will find friendly white water for first steps, good surfers will enjoy perfect head high waves on line up! For sure, sometimes, you have no swell but we were lucky and could surf everyday. That day we were celebrating my Birthday was one of the best and definitelly changed my life! I was super drunk and I couldn’t skip surf-trip crew lifestyle! I was jealous and I asked freely how can I get this job as well.

Otmar was laughing me .. I couldn't even think what was in his mind. Something like…Pitrs…,you idiot :-). Nah, whatever … after few month my phone was ringing and it was Otmar asking me politelly if I want to cooperate with them! Happy days that changed my life!

I finished my surf instructor course and joined to this company. Sooo, there is just one thing I wanted to say. If you have dreams, GO AFTER THEM! At the moment we can meet each other in different destinations and we can have fun together. I’m looking forward for french summer and can’t wait to see you somewhere all around the world. BIG LOVE AND SEE YA SOON!


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